With the posts set in concrete and squared up, it’s on to framing. We began by trimming off the excess on the 2″ x 12″ x 24′ preparing to attach the rim joists. The rim joists we extended past the posts closest to the home to within 2.5″ of the side of the home. We did this knowing that we would be adding another floor joist along the side of the home to support the edge of the deck boards which you’ll see in later pictures.
Once again, we used cinder blocks and a 1″ shim to level the front floor joist, and then attached it using exterior 3″ framing nails. Once we created the outer “box”, we installed the inner floor joists so that each post was wrapped with a 2″ x 12″ on both sides. As we said in the Part 1, the remaining floor is leveled off of the initial floor joist along the house. I can’t stress enough about using a level continually through this process.
We added perpendicular braces using 2″ x 12″s in the center of the porch.
Next, we attached a piece of 2″ x 12″ for supporting the floor joist closest to the home which will be used in supporting the edge of the deck boards. Also, we used joist hangers to attach 2″ x 8″ boards lengthwise in between the inner 2″ x 12″s as not to allow for sag when stepping on the deck boards.
Once the first half of the floor framing was complete and the two 6″ x 6″ posts were cut off level with the framing (shown in pictures), we installed the 10′ deck boards up to the center post. We then decided to add bracing in between the cross bracing floor joists that run widthwise as you can see below. These were more to keep the deck boards from sagging in that spot as opposed to structural reasons. We finished framing the remaining floor joists including the floor joist closes to the home. Finally, we finished installing the deck boards on the other half of the porch.
We then snapped a chalk line, and cut the edge of all the deck boards to give it a square edge.
Next came setting a 2″ x 12″ x24′ board (roof joist) on top of the nailed in place roof support, making sure set it to within 1.5′ below the roof peak. Once we had this board where it would ultimately rest, we were then ready to make our measurements to tell us where our cuts would need to be.
To find the bottom angle for cutting off the bottom edge of the board, which will make it match the slope of the current roof, measure 8′ from the top and make a mark. Some of the pictures show after I’ve already cut the bottom edge of the board to match the current roof slope, but you still get the point.
Next, with the board resting on the current roof and the roof support, making sure it is at the correct height on the current roof, use a tape measure to find the total inches of gap between the bottom edge of the board at the 8′ mark and the current roof below it. For our measurement, it was 3.5″ although the picture angle makes it look greater. Next, we marked 3.5″ up from the bottom edge of the board (side closest to the roof peak with the board standing on edge), and used the 8′ level to draw a line between the 3.5″ mark at the boards end and the 8′ mark on the bottom side of the board.
Next, we made a mark 3.5″ up the side of the board from the bottom edge. Then, we made two lines extending up from the sides of the roof support onto the roof joist. And finally, we made the mark across the top at our 3.5″ mark making sure it is parallel with the roof support board below it: this makes for a tight, square fit when setting the roof joist into place. (The pictures show a mock up of how to measure to cut this opening because I lost the originals).
We then cut the board along the line we had earlier made and cut out the notch. With the angle section removed and the notch cut out, the roof joist sat easily into place.
We once again verified the roof joist was within the measurements we had earlier made: primarily, it reached far enough up the current roof and would create an overhang past the width of the porch. Once we knew we were still good, we snapped a chalk line from the top of the roof joist where it contacted the current roof and the top of the roof joist at the edge of the overhang. This will be the cut that finalizes the slope of your roof.
After that, we took the roof joist back down to the ground and cut along our chalk line; thus creating a completed roof joist. We then laid the completed roof joist against each remaining board, we needed 14 roof joists, and marked each one.
Once all 14 roof joists were cut, we set the first one back in place (technically the 2nd one since we mounted it on the inside edge of the posts), nailed it to the posts using exterior 3″ framing nails, and then attached the outermost roof support board in place making sure it was level. This is a simple procedure because the roof joist is already nailed in place so all we had to do was touch the top of the roof support to the bottom of the roof joist making sure the roof support extended at least 1.5″ past the outer edge of the post, and then leveled the other end of the roof support.
After cutting all the boards, and attaching the roof support, we stacked all of the roof joists onto the deck making it easier for us to hoist them onto the roof. We also primed/sealed the cut edges that would be making contact with the current roof just as an added safety for any moisture they might contact.
Then we made marks every 2′ along our roof supports for the locations of each roof joist to be centered on (2′ is a good spacing that allows for quick OSB sheathing installment – I wouldn’t go any wider than 2′). Because we left a minimum 1.5″ overhang of the roof supports past the outer edges of the posts it made it easy to set the outermost roof joists in place by resting them on the roof supports.
The roof joists that laid against a post we nailed using 3″ exterior framing nails, and the rest we used metal framing brackets and attached them with structural screws: eight per bracket – why Isaac is making a dork of a face I have no idea.
Next, we attached the upper parts of the roof joists to the existing roof using exterior screws. The red spray paints shows where we attached them.
We then snapped a chalk line along the front edge of the roof joists, made a level mark on each board, and then trimmed off the edges so that all the roof joists would line up. Next, we attached a 2″ x 12″ board across the face of all the roof joists. After this we installed small filler blocks at the ends between the inner and outer roof supports so there would not be a gap between them.
We cut off the excess 6″x6″ posts even with the roof joists: made a mark on both sides even with the roof joists and then used a reciprocating saw with a long blade to cut them off. Then we cut off the excess 2″ x 12″s to clean things up.
Next, we began installing 7/16″ OSB for sheathing on the roof using 2″ exterior framing nails making sure to: add h-clips in between every roof joist on the long side of the OSB panel, leave about a 1/16″ gap between the panel ends, starting every other row with an OSB panel cut in half (or there about) as to keep the paneling offset. Once all the paneling was installed, we cleaned up any panels that were not perfectly aligned with the exterior roof joists.
That’s enough for now! More to come in part 3…