How to bypass the secondary air induction pump system on 2004-2012 4.7L Toyota Tundra, 4-Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, and Lexus GX470 & LX470 and on 2007-2012 5.7L Toyota Tundra, 4-Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, and Lexus GX570 & LX570.

With all the issues surrounding the Toyota 4.7L and 5.7L engines regarding the secondary air injection pump system, which causes the vehicle to enter into “Limp” mode and makes driving on the highway nearly impossible, their is a company called RuTech Solutions that sells a bypass kit to resolve the issues for around $179:  there is a kit for the 4.7L and one for the 5.7L.  The vehicle I installed the kit on was a 2008 Toyota Crew Limited with a 5.7L that had the check engine light on (P2442 and P2443), the VSC light flashing, and the TCS light on.  With the new extended warranty for this issue now covering 10 years or 150,000 miles, he was past on the mileage and didn’t want to spend thousands on a complete repair since the secondary air induction pump system is for the emissions system only and not engine performance. Thus, a much cheaper route to fix these issues and potentially codes P1441, P1442, P1444, P1445, P2440-P2445 without the concern of pumps or valves failing again, is a bypass kit.  The bypass kit consists of 3 items.  First, the bypass module which simply hooks into the wiring harness connected to the mass air flow sensor.  One end of the new harness hooks into the MAF sensor and the other end into the original MAF connector:  I simply added a few zip ties to clean things up.






The two remaining parts are the exhaust block off plates.  The SAS system includes air tubes that connect to the rear of the exhaust manifolds on each side of the engine.  The bock off plates fit in between this connection to stop exhaust gases from backing up into the SAS system when used with a bypass module.  RuTech says that you must use these plates in conjunction with the bypass module.  I installed the passenger side plate first without having to remove the tire.








Remove the two nuts using a deep socket 10mm with a wobble and extension.  To create just enough gap to slide the block off plate in I used a screwdriver to push on the exhaust stud.  Once the plate is completely in, re-tighten the nuts and put the dust flap back on.






Next, I tackled the driver’s side.  I did remove the tire as the angle of installation made it much easier with the tire removed.
















I ended up having to remove the small, exhaust studs in order to create enough gap to install the block off plate (it took me a bit to finally come to that point but I’m glad I did).







With a little persuasion, re-installed the exhaust studs and nuts, and then re-attached the dust flap.



At this point, I installed and torqued the wheel, cleared the codes from the ECM using my scan tool, and then took it for a test drive on the highway…runs like new again with no codes re-occurring.